First of all let's address the spelling, writes Riverbank Stone.
Is it Isaan, Isan, Eesan, Isarn, or whatever? Who cares? It is the 19 provinces
of the northeast.
The Mekong River borders it on the north and east and Cambodia, or is
it Kampuchea, borders along the south. The southwest border is the Sankamphaeng
mountain range and to the north the Phu Pan and Petchabun ranges protects
it from the rest of the country. The ethnic make up includes the Kaloeng,
Khamu, Khmer, Lawa, Lao Phuan, Phu Thai, Saek, Song, Suai, Yau and Yai.
Trains did not come to the area until the 1900's. The first paved road
got to Korat in the early 60's and the rest of Isaan started to get paved
in the mid 60's as part of US-backed rural development. Electrification
brought radio and TV, and Bangkok Thai as the language.
Okay, that takes care of the intro. Isaan, like Gaul, is divided into
three parts. The first part is that which borders another country. So we
have Cambodia and Laos as neighbours. The people in these areas have adopted
many of the customs, foods and pieces of language of the folks next door.
This is especially true on the Mekong, as many of the people along the
river are more ethnically related to the Lao than the Thai. Hell, the place
WAS part of Lao.
Anyhow, then you have the inland Isaan folks. They're alright, but Isaan
without the river is like Switzerland without the cuckoo clock.
Finally you have the part of Isaan that isn't Isaan anymore. The perfect
example is Korat, or Khorat, or Nakhom Ratchasima. The folks here out-Bangkok
the Bangkok Thais. The place has more western-style restaurants per capita
than Washington DC. It IS easier to get a pizza than a kai yaang. They
have Bangkok style tuk-tuks and buses (yep the real deal) all over the
place. And language? They krap with the best of them.
Korat is just another big city with a few Khmer ruins, but it has a
great hotel, the Sri Pattana. For 510b you get an air-con room with all
modern necessities. AND the place has a 24-hour coffee shop and a swimming
pool that is not only clean, but also usually open. Walk out the parking
lot and turn right toward the 7-11 and you will find the Swedish Pizza
Place (go figure!). Sten and his wife Noi put out some great European food,
cold beer and good coffee. His burgers are real beef, and his calzone is
one of my favourites.
PEARL HARBOR?
Click for larger photograph
Almost! This metal bas relief of a Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero-Sen actually
represents an aircraft of the 64th Sentai, wich was stationed here at Chiangmai.
Framed in dark Thai timber, each piece is numbered and only 1000 pieces
will ever be produced. Made by Thai craftsmen with care.
If you want to see how life was before soap, visit the VFW restaurant.
Just follow the smell of old greases. The place is filthy (I last looked
in mid June) and the staff practice service-with-a-snarl.
Khon Kaen is a place I know nothing about except that it is a university
town with a bunch of nubile young girls running around. I am too old and
decrepit to be checking out all those discos. If you do get stuck there,
the Kosa Hotel is good value.
Udon Thani is the next stop on the way up Highway 2. There are 2 places
to stay. The Charoen Hotel, with pool and modern amenities, is good value.
For the more daring, Erwin's Bungalows with pool, mod-cons, hot and cold
running girls and more German food than an Octoberfest is a great place
to stop. Just around the corner from the Charoen complex is Mick's Pub.
Western food and cold beer in a roomy air-con place.
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Nakhon Panom is where you land next if you are travelling from Nong
Khai along the river. Their Boat Race Festival at the end of the Rains
(late September?) is Big Time! The Nakhon Panom Hotel at 500b in the new
section used to be good value, but my last couple visits the pool was closed.
I still like it for its location. The River View, which I haven't been
at in a while could be a good bet as well. The market by the boat crossing
is the place to go for an evening beer, and the Isaan food is outstanding.
It is also the place to come in the morning for Lao coffee and Chinese
doughnuts.
Thai, Laos food, Swedish pizza, Chinese doughnuts and Beer Chang
all over? Hell, the place is getting real international. Try it!
CARDS WELCOME
Riverbank
Stone
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