Good Morning Chiangmai News Magazine

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LAOS BY BRIDGE!

Riverbank Stone, our man in Nong Khai, looks across the Friendship Bridge to the world's sleepiest capital.

Vientiane! If you are there for a Saturday or Monday, check out the Hash. Hash House Harriers are drinkers with a running problem, they are a world wide movement and they have a chapter here. The Bush Hash meets at the centrally located Fountain Bar. If Tony is still at the Fountain he is a fount of info. If he's not there, he's not. Sometimes the kitchen serves up burger and chips, and who knows who will come stumbling in?

The thing that is most important to me in town is location. Can I stumble back to my room when in Vientiane? Also that mid-day sleep after drinking lunch, prior to going out to drink the evening meal? The Doung Duane, on the soi behind the Tai Pan, has good air-con rooms with breakfast for about 900 Baht. Just up the soi from the Thi Pan is a guesthouse which charges 400B for an air-con room. 'Next day' visas at the Thai Embassy mean you need only one night if need be.

Food is no problem, from L' Opera at the Fountain (Italian); the Golden Horse near Si Muang market on the river road (fresh fish the plat du jour); or a pizza at the Fountain itself - there are tons of places to get a good western meal. The Taj, beloved of curry munchers, has very sadly gone.

What to drink is not the question. Beer Lao is an outstanding lager. But where to drink? The Samlor Pub (and its owner Paul Bounds) is an institution in Vientiane. After a few hours you might be putting yourself in one, too. Most of the old crowd stops in and it's a good place if you're looking for a temporary new mate.

Near the Fountain is the Khap Jai Dieu. I find it too trendy with the back-packer set. I do hear that things pick up at night, but I don't like the ambiance. I'm not really sure what ambiance is, anyhow.

Now for the sad part. Those who remember the Russian Club (also known as the Bar Mixay) know that it is no longer with us. The PDR tore it (and its Very basic toilet) down in the name of progress. Service was rotten. I never heard of anyone dying from the food, but come to think of it I never remember anyone eating there! Beer was often warm, but it was home. The best boat race parties were held there, as I remember. You could meet people from all over the world, even the occasional Russian. Proprietor Mr. Boun Mi has passed on to that big bar in the sky and never again will we miss the sunset while drinking there.

Now there are new dozens of places on the river. None with toilets. And none the same as the dear ole Russian Club. The boat races are held both in Nong Khai and Vientiane at Auk Pansaa, which falls early this year, ie late Sept. Wat Meechai on the Nongers side of the river is a good place. It usually has a band, or some type of noise.

Next month: Stone rolls south. Nong Khai is also a great base from which to explore Beer Chang country. Isaan!

Riverbank Stone