"How in hell do you get round these places without losing your
liver or choking on cholesterol?" asks a guy who reads this stuff
on the internet. Easy. I don't. It's truth time - and truth is I listen to
other folk I know are reliable.
Great burgers behind the dark glass
Yes, it DID take me just over a year to get to Easy Diner; yes
they DO have one of the very best burger's in town (more anon) but it wasn't
me who sampled the excellent Lady Jane's Pub in Phitsanuloke months
back - and it wasn't me who toured some of Chiangmai's "No Frills"
places reported here. It was my spies who clue me up on e-mail - or on
scraps of soiled paper left under certain challenging pool tables.
Clues to these anonymuos sleuths of the night? I'll give you just one.
Most of them are called Dave, mainly because most people eating and driking
in Chiangmai are called Dave. They all agree that the name wasn't commonplace
way back when. They grew up on class alongside Johns, Michaels, Brians
and Steves. But most Daves worldwide are right here now in Chiangmai, guzzling
and gabbing with each other. English Daves (there are 4) hunt around for
good, low cost places; Australian Dave surfaces at 11.00pm (my karaoke
correspondent); Belgian Dave runs Charming Bar (welcome back!) and
American Dave cruises round smart eateries - like Easy Diner. It
was he who invited me to this fine establishment opposite the Shell station
near Thapae Gate in Rachadamnern Road run by English Dave, sorry, Phil!
The burgers comprise excellent ingredients (Nothern Farms meat,
I was told); come with a wide choice of toppings; are cooked to perfection
and portion sizes are generous in the extreme. Part of Phil's success here
is attention to detail. The coleslaw dressing is the best I've had in town,
the fries have just the right salting and you get low-volume BBC TV and
air-con. Phil, keep it, as they say in certain parts of London, up!
"Please eat here before we both starve!" is the plaintive
plea atop the printed menu of Kaew's, the fist "No frills"
place reported to me this month by English Dave No 3. Directly opposite
the Chinese temple in Loi Kroh, close to The Red Lion, 25B is the
most you'll pay here for any one of 18 Thai, Chinese or Vietnamese dishes.
No booze, but free water is supplied.
I do recall visiting another favourite of Royal Lanna resigents,
Grandfarther's House, the aptly named wooden place opposite Lanna
Thai guest house in the nearby soi leading to Anusarn Market. Friendly
folk with quiet, friendly white dogs, they serve great Thai food at low
prices. "Gracious people with a relaxed, traditional atmosphere"
writes Dave 3. He gets his own column next month.
Signs in English, names even, are rare at these places. People running
a khao soi place across the river near Rimping supermarket were bemused
when Dave 3 asked it's name. Fat Uncle's Khao Soi, a move costing
millions at any Bangkok advertising agency, was the eventual answer!
Up Thapae Road at night? Sudden flame on the right near the top is not
a book store catching fire. Phad Thai (this sign is in English!). Outstanding
vegetable matter, 20B each and you form a line!
It's from the dying days of Domino,
now the very much-alive-and-friendly True Blue. It was a Saturday
lunch time, lots of guys were drinking at the bar and a lovely Thai lady
paused at the open door and called "High Dave!". Seven (I kid
you not, SEVEN) heads swivelled right and 7 enthusiastic voices shouted
"High yourself!"