Can you Relax and enjoy dinner while watching a rock concert? Yes,
but only under the overhead DVD screen at The Fillmore East in Loi Kroh
Road, where Ron Molnar (above left) presents his native American cuisine
with Mexican and French overtones.
So, as the incomparable Eagles took me back in time I was enjoying a
spicy potato wedge starter (only 55b) when Ron suddenly dropped his bombshell.
"You've ordered the Angus from USA, the USDA spec?" he inquired
earnestly, almost as if I may change my mind. I reflected on the delicious
bone-free pork chop I'd enjoyed last visit (and was thinking I'd opt for
that if Ron was temporarily out of stock) when right on cue the waiter
displayed the meat on it's way to the grill. "Er, yes, medium to well
done" I confirmed, confused.
JUST LIKE THE REAL THING?
Click for larger photograph
Almost! This metal bas relief of a Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero-Sen actually
represents an aircraft of the 64th Sentai, wich was stationed here at Chiangmai.
Framed in dark Thai timber, each piece is numbered and only 1000 pieces
will ever be produced. Made by Thai craftsmen with care.
"I just want you to know in advance that this is the best steak
in Chiangmai" said Ron quietly, without blinking. He said it with
such aplomb, such conviction, such a penetrating gaze that I thought he
was about to swear an oath! In fact, he was metaphorically throwing down
a gauntlet and I'd be delighted if someone out there would pick it up,
because the customers - you and I - can only win!
But let me tell you now, rival caterers reading, what you have to beat.
USDA is a formal American beef standard. The one I sampled was not the
biggest around but, at 375B including mashed potato, neither was it the
most expensive. By far! It was totally free of bone and fat and rounded
off with Ron's own subtle coating of a very mild garlic, salt and other
good things which are trade secrets.
The fragrance was sublime, the meat totally tender to the bite and succulent
on the tongue, the degree of cooking perfect and the flavour the same I
remember of real beef 40 years ago.
I confess to a bias towards black pepper and a young lady at The
Regent Resort Mae Rim recently agreed. When I mused about their being
not quite enough on something she murmured quietly "There's not enough
black pepper in the world". We addicts must stick together, and peppersteaks
at Haus Munchen, Hofbrauhaus and Grillstation must be taken
very seriously, but I digress. If you take a near naked steak, The Fillmore
East in my humble view is currently the local bench mark by which to
judge. But don't take my word for it. Treat yourself!
A Nipponese night
Dining in detail needs careful note taking, especially if you're unfamiliar
with the cuisine. That's why my colleague Night Fowl found a Japanese friend
to describe the dishes at Kitchen Hush recently - and Yours Truly to write
it all down. The three of us enjoyed many varied dishes and a small beer
each for a total of 880b. Yes, for three! Now I've got your full attention,
let's detail some of the delights at this modern, elegant, friendly place
in the obscure little lanes east of the river.
The o-sashimi fresh sliced
fish is a good starter and the moriawase
version served here gives you tuna, shrimp, squid, octopus,
decorative raw vegetables and grated horse radish. (You could put out the
fire of the latter with warm, dry sake rice wine from Vietnam if the mood
took you).
Megumi, our guide, was whisked back to her childhood by saba
no misoni, mackerel in soy sauce with a little ginger, and the
porcelain pot of natto "from
my home town, just like mother made!" The Japanese equivalent of durian,
this has a slightly unpleasant odour which might discourage you from the
low calorie, nutritious fermented soya beans inside.
If you like pumpkin, our little party resolved to recommend kobocha
no nimono in which the vegetable is boiled in soup stock with
sugar. And if you succumb to sheer greed as I did, you'll finish off with
a big, mild beef curry before asking for the bill - the last of many pleasant
surprises here!
The award-winning Chiangmai Zoo at the foot of Doi Suthep
introduced a baby giraffe recently, and is preparing for the arrival of
a pair of rare pandas from China (...).
Ric
Klein
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