My friend Rick who works at the Pentagon (and how's THAT for an opening
line to launch 2002?!!) put it clear, fair and fast, which I guess are
3 good reasons why he works there. "We've decided to buy a new car"
he e-mailed in September, within a week of seeing nearby offices vanish
in a fireball from the sky.
No rocks or candy,
just the lovely Ying and friends at Rock Candy, CEC, Loi Kroh.
And if it hadn't been for the new baby I guess he'd be here in his favourite
'foreign' city on vacation. What he was really saying, of course, was that
life must go on as near normal as possible - and money must be spent to
keep the economy from going belly up.
Well, at time of writing, life seems to have reverted to just that in
Rick's part of the world, in Europe (where London did fear similar tragedies)
and here in little ole Chiangmai. And I humbly suggest we follow the Rick
philosophy. Buying a car may not be your thing but if the bar scene is
- go out - choose - spend - enjoy. This life is not a rehearsal!
If you're a visitor, allow me to advise you of 2 areas of the city -
and their inter-connecting roads - which you might enjoy the most. The
Night Bazaar means Changklan Road and connecting sois (lanes) and a
whole host of hosts ready to give you a good time. The oldest established
area catering to western tastes and closer to more large hotels, prices
here are understandably higher than elsewhere, but still darn good Thai
value.
An up-scale French restaurant was almost ready to open near McDonalds
as I write, German, Indian, Italian, Belgian, Israeli, Korean, Japanese
and British cuisines are all around (British cuisine, an oxymoron?) and
there are a host of small bars between Chiang Inn Plaza and the
Night Bazaar building. Closer to Thapae Road (and partly hidden
by sidewalk vendors at night) is The Peak rock climbing wall, a
unique attraction which needs only the magic marketing touch to really,
well, peak!
Second city area to start flourishing was Thapae Gate, around
this recent red brick re-construction of the proud structure originally
designed by the legendary King Mengrai. The Black Cat, a legend of a different
type, was the first western watering hole here, now re-born in it's 5th
or 6th incarnation as the Chiangmai Garden restaurant run by Somchai,
aka John of nearby John's Place. I will try and report. Next, historically,
came Domino, a great place in it's day now flourishing once more as True
Blue with substantial Aussie and Britnosh much relished by faithful
locals. I'm watching the Bar Beer Centre next door to see whether
it really is following the example of the neighbouring Up2U late night
bar and re-inventing itself as a hassle-free venue.
JUST LIKE THE REAL THING?
Click for larger photograph
Almost! This metal bas relief of a Mitsubishi A6M2 Zero-Sen actually
represents an aircraft of the 64th Sentai, wich was stationed here at Chiangmai.
Framed in dark Thai timber, each piece is numbered and only 1000 pieces
will ever be produced. Made by Thai craftsmen with care.
In the little soi to the east, Da Stefano is still my favourite
Italian in town for quality, value and service - watch out for the related
new La Gondola opening on the riverbank soon.
Currently the linking street to beat is without doubt Loi Kroh Road,
though why all the businesses don't gang up on City Hall and demand proper
sidewalks beats me. Visitors walk a lot and if they must always watch their
feet to avoid breaking an ankle they are NOT going to be looking at your
wonderous bars, restaurants and shops, guys! At least you won't have to
be re-zoned as feared, following the Governor's assurance that you're all
officially legal!
Take time, if you will, to explore CM Entertainment Complex off
Loi Kroh near the Imperial Mae Ping Hotel. Many ups and downs in
it's short history but late night around the muay Thai boxing ring is time
well spent. Boxing, katoey shows and even cock-fighting come free, while
characters like Canadian Scott and English Mark at Hiss & Slither,
and now Joe and Ying at next door's Rock Candy offer between them
chess, pool, darts et al, but best of all a warm and sincere welcome. Surely
what Chiangmai is all about?
'It's from e-mail: Words that should
exist but don't. Telecratination. Letting the phone ring at least twice
before answering. Standard Thai technique in fact!
The award-winning Chiangmai Zoo at the foot of Doi Suthep
introduced a baby giraffe recently, and is preparing for the arrival of
a pair of rare pandas from China (...).